Thursday-Saturday, April 20-22, 2017 - Trips final days

ITo Cape Reinga - 20 April 

Cape Reinga is the northern tip of New Zealand and was it ever beautiful. For the ancient Maori, this was called Spirit Island (Kapowaiua)they believed this was where their spirits left this earth. It is also where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean merge. The waters were very turbulent. This was the site of the longest operating Light House in New Zealand. It is now fully a automated. We hiked down to a long white sand beach on which we were the only people........so Ed decided we would skinny dip! This was another first for me! The water was cold and the waves big. The hike back up was a little challenging for me but I am getting better at pacing myself, thanks to a good teacher. Next we drove a short way to Tapotoputo Beach, a lovely crescent shaped Bay. We sat awhile, shared a beer and took another swim, fully clothed. This is the only beach that allows camping for many miles. It was a great spot. After a quick stop at some massive sand dunes, which we did not have time or desire to play on, we returned to our Motel, had a nice meal and called it a night.

Back to Auckland, 21 April

Crossed over 7 pages of the atlas today! By the end of the day, Ed will have driven over 6,500 km with great skill and patience. 95% of these miles were 2 lane curvy roads with hundreds of single lane bridges. The South Island roads were much worse than the North Island. Gas has averaged $ 8.00 a gallon! Tonight we have been invited to dinner by a couple John and Ed met on the bike trek, Alex (Alexandra) and Dexter Loos.

Alex picked us up at 6:30 and took us to their beautiful home a short distance away. Their son, Harry, was there and we had a great dinner and conversation. Dexter is a GP here in Auckland and Susan and he shared many medical stories. We hope to be able to host Alex and Dexter someday at our home.

Last day, 22 April 

We are currently at the hotel and will check out around 11:00 and head to a local park for some walking and passing the time until we head to the airport. 

This has been a magical trip for both of us and it was great to have John join me for the three weeks before Susan arrived. We are ready to be home, see the families and sit in the hot tub.

    Where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet

    The lighthouse 

    Skinnydipper Bay near the start of the hike down

    No one around 

    The Dunes

    Susan, Alex and Dexter

Sunday-Wednesday, April 16-19, 2017 - More North Island adventure and fun

This blog post brought to you by Susan

Waihi  Beach 16 April

Arrived mid afternoon and checked into our motel after which we went to the beach for a walk. The water temperature was very tolerable and I decided to swim a bit. Much to my delight and surprise, Ed joined me! We jumped over and under the waves, and got knocked down multiple times by quite sizeable breakers in some sets. We laughed a lot and had a great time. Had a very good meal in the Bistro at the motel. It was a a lovely day.

Tauranga, 17 April

The next morning we got up leisurely, I fixed Ed coffee in the room and he began working on the blog while I fixed a cereal breakfast and packed us up. Once the blog was sent we went back down to the beach in the rain. However, within a few minutes the sun came out and it was beautiful. There were a lot of surfers and very good waves . We have been very fortunate with the timing of the rain. The heavier down pours have seemed to occur on days we have been driving. Wishing we could stay longer and play in the surf but,  we moved on to drive to Tauranga to visit and spend the night with Jenny and Gavin Baxter, a lovely couple whom Ed had met previously on his Alaskan cruise. They had a beautiful home with amazing fruit trees and flowers. We took a mini hike through an old Quarry area which has been reclaimed by multiple groups of volunteers. Different areas have been sectioned off and dedicated to display specific species of flowers.  Lots of quirky art has been added. It was really neat.

Heading north to Whangarei, 18 April

Early start, heading north back through Aukland. We plan to spend our last 3 days getting to the farthest point north we can. Arrived late afternoon, took a long walk to Whangarei waterfall under a canopy of lush tropical trees, did some grocery shopping and fixed dinner here at the motel.

Kaitaia, 18 April

Once again taking our time to get going this morning. Have a  4 hour boat ride planned for today through the the Bay of Islands. Some 144 islands with hopes of seeing dolphins. Will have a barbecue lunch on shore. Then we will hit the road to Kaitia, approximately an hour drive from here. We will spend two days exploring the far end of the North Island before heading back to Auckland for a Saturday evening departure. 

Kaitaia , to the furthest point North we can go, 19 April

Yesterday's  expedition on Discovery IV did not disappoint. We saw many dolphins, some with babies. Took a quick hike to the top of the island on which we had lunch and the views were spectacular. Enjoyed a beautiful evening sky on the way back to port. It was another wonderful day.

    With Jenni and Gavin

    On a hike

    A stop in the Bay of Islands

    Hole in the rock

    One of 144 Islands in the Bay of Islands 

Thursday-Saturday, April 6-15, 2017 - North Island from Wellington to Auckland

MIt took about a half an hour to get off the ferry and with the GPS we were able to find the Worldwide Backpackers Hostel. Unfortunately parking was quite a problem. The Hostel is in a residential area and most of the parking is by permit. Every couple of blocks there are a few spaces marked "Coupon Parking" where you have to purchase a coupon from a local retailer for $6.50 per day. We unloaded the car and Susan and I went searching for a spot. We finally found one that was not too far from the Hostel. Fortunately we had until 10:00 the next morning to by our coupon.

The Hostel was marginally OK and was "very" loud. On Friday the four of us headed out for a walking tour of Wellington. The first stop was Mt. Cook which was about an hour away and offers great views of the city. The city is quite spread out and is the second largest seaport in New Zealand. We then headed to the main wharf area near where the ferry arrived. Susan and I stopped for lunch at a Brewpub and Maud and Aurelie went their separate ways. We agreed to meet for dinner. Susan and I spent the afternoon walking the seaport area. We visited the Anglican St. Paul's Cathedral and the Maritime Museum. We met the girls for dinner and went to the Wellington night market before heading back to to Hostel for another noisy night. We were both glad to be out of there the next morning.

Saturday morning had us headed towards Tongariro National Park where we planned to hike the Tongariro Crossing on Sunday. We stopped at Queen Elizabeth Park in Paekakariki on the way. The park is on the coast and we all strolled on the beach for an hour or so before heading to the Discovery Lodge near the National Park where would camp for two nights. The Lodge had a great common area with a kitchen and seating area. Our shuttle to the trailhead was at 5:30 AM on Sunday morning so we hit the sack early.

On Sunday morning we were dropped off at the trailhead just before 6:00. The Tongariro Crossing is a 20.5 km point to point hike that goes up to a mountain pass and then back down. The trail is through a volcanic area with many areas of small geysers and hot springs all of which were very high in sulphur content. It was an amazing hike and has joined my top ten list. I still have not decided which hike to take off the list. We had a total elevation gain of over 700 meters. Susan was concerned about her ability to do the hike without completely wearing herself out but she did great and also loved the hike. This hike is now number one on Susan's great hikes list. We were shuttled back to their campground where we showered and had a relaxing evening. 

On Monday we had only a two hour drive to our next stop at Lake Taupo so we took our time with breakfast and allowed the tents to dry. Upon arriving at Lake Taupo we found a campground (can't remember the name), pitched our tents and went out for a little exploring. Our first stop was Aratiatia Rapids. This is located at a power plant where several times a day water is released from a dam creating huge rapids in a short stretch of river. It only lasts a few minutes but was quite amazing. We then travelled to Huka Falls where the river really narrows and goes over a 6 meter or so Falls. We then went to a free public hot springs where the only good thing about it was we could say we were there. We shopped for a dinner of lamb chops, rice and broccoli which we fixed at a very small common area kitchen at the campground.

Tuesday morning had us headed to Rotorua where we stayed in a large Hostel. Susan and I had our own very small room (a double bed with maybe 1' on each side. On the way to Rotorua we stopped at Wai-O-Tapu Geothermal Reserve. Susan and I passed on the $30 entry fee and sat in the coffee shop while Aurelie and Maud toured the park. We then checked into the Hostel and walked around Rotorua. That night we were shuttled to Tamakimaori Village for a Maori experience. The Maori are the native people of New Zealand. We were treated to a well done reenactment of Maori history with storytelling and dance. New Zealand has done a great job in keeping the Maori Culture alive. Most signage is both in English and Maori languages. We had dinner there and were taken back to the Hostel.

On Wednesday morning we headed to Waitomo and checked into the Juno Waitomo Hostel which was the nicest Hostel we've stayed at. We shared a four bunk room with our own bathroom. At 3:00 PM we were outfitted in full wetsuits for a three hour Blackwater Rafting adventure in a small river through the Waitomo Cave system. For about half the trip we waded in the river and the other half we floated in inner tubes. We went over two water falls and the highlight was being in complete darkness and seeing thousands of Glow Worms. 

Thursday morning we headed to the big city of Auckland which has a third of the total population of New Zealand. On the way we stopped at Piha and walked around on the black sand beach. The area is known for strong rip tides so there was no swimming. The beach area was very rocky and it was fun watching the sea crash into the rocks. We then visited Karekare Falls before heading into the city. We stayed at another crappy city Hostel. It wasn't very clean and once again very loud. We were in a four bunk room with shared bathrooms. 

On Friday morning we did a self guided walking tour of Auckland with our first stop at Mt. Eden where as in Wellington we had great views of the city. Maud found a self guided tour in her Lonely Planet book which the four of us did most of before Aurelie, Susan and I stopped for lunch. After lunch Susan and I left Aurelie and headed to the Sky Tower in the heart of the city. The Sky Tower is a 600+ meter tower with three viewing levels. The cost was $23 (senior rate) and the experience was truly worth the fare. We stayed for about three hours enjoying the 360 degree views of the city and surrounding waterways and islands.

Saturday morning we said our goodbyes to Aurelie and Maud. They were to fly out that evening and planned a ferry ride to Waiheke Island before heading to the airport. Susan and I checked out of the Hostel and went to the War Memorial Museum before having lunch in a park and checking into a hotel for the night.

All in all a great week.

    Overlooking Wellington 

    Hiking the Tongariro Crossing. Stopped for a kiss.

    In Waitomo Cave

    Along the coast

    From the Sky Tower

    From the Sky Tower

Sunday-Thursday, April 2-6,2017 - Finishing up on the South Island

I am writing this while on the ferry from Picton on the South Island to Wellington on the North Island. It is a 3 1/2 hour journey.

Sunday morning we were still in Hamner Springs. The sun was out, it was quite warm and we had our coffee, tea and breakfast out on our little balcony. We checked out right at 10:00 and started our 400 km drive to Takaka. About 60 km out I passed the bridge where I hit the curb a couple of weeks ago. Fortunately I made it through without mishap. We passed through Springs Junction where I was able to show Susan where John and I went the night in New Zealand's worst motel. A few km later we realized that we failed to empty the fridge AGAIN! A bottle of wine, six beers and half dozen hard boiled eggs were left behind. As I always say: "it's a good thing we have plenty of money". We had sandwiches at a roadside picnic area and arrived in Takaka about 4:30. We shopped for dinner and some meals for the next few days, had dinner, watched some ESPN and called it a night.

On Monday we were scheduled to pick up Aurelie and Maud at the end of the Heaphy Track at 12:30 so we decided to tour around the far NE coast before the pickup. We drove up the coast to Collingwood which is the furthest north town on the east coast. We then headed along some bad road to Cape Farewell which is the northern most point on the South Island. It was very cloudy and foggy so we were unable to see the North Island. We arrived at the trailhead a little after noon and started to walk up the trail and within minutes the ladies appeared. Perfect timing. Maud and Aurelie did some food shopping in Takaka and we headed to Marahau and the start of the Abel Tasman track. The plan was to kayak for 12 1/2 km on Tuesday and camp at Anchorage Bay. Wednesday we would hike another 13 km and then get picked up by a water taxi and taken back to Marahau. After our very tiring kayak adventure in Milford Sound Susan and I decided that we would hike both days and meet Aurelie and Maud at Anchorage Bay. Shortly after telling them of our plan Maud got an email stating that due to rough seas the kayak portion of the trip was cancelled.  Upon arriving in Marahau we found a cabin for the four of us to spend the night. The proprietor told us that a cyclone was headed our way with heavy rain and wind. Change of plans #2. We decided to spend a second night there and day hike on Tuesday to Anchorage Bay and back.

Tuesday morning brought clouds but no rain. We fixed our breakfast and headed out. The trailhead was only a quarter mile from the campground so we walked rather than take the car. The hike was fantastic. The trail mainly followed the coast with a few spots that went slightly inland. Susan said that this was her favorite hike ever. The trail was remarkably flat and extremely well maintained. We had lunch at Anchorage Bay and headed back. The total for the day was just over 25 km (15.5 miles) and we loved every step. For dinner we all shared one of Susan's prepared dinners with wine and beer. A great day.

It rained most of the night. We basically had a free day so we decided to head to Nelson, find a place to stay and tour the city. Nelson was approximately half way between Marahau and Picton and with the rain it seemed like a good plan. On the way we stopped at a small brewery where Aurelie and Maud took the tour while Susan and I relaxed in their lounge area. We stayed at the Backpacker Hostel which was quite close to the City Centre. We had a four bed room and shared all other facilities. The place was very clean and had a huge kitchen area. Susan and I toured the city by ourselves where we spent about an hour touring the Anglican Cathedral and walked the streets. On our way back to they hostel we stopped at the "Free House" which is a church that has been converted into a pub that specializes in New Zealand's Craft beers. We shared a sampler of five 130 ml glasses ranging from a Pilsner to a Stout. Only the IPA disappointed. Susan fixed dinner and did some laundry while I did a little grocery shopping. Aurelie and Maud spent the evening out while Susan and I caught up on our reading. Another great day.

As we only had a 2 1/2 hour drive to Picton we took our time with coffee and breakfast this morning. We even spent an hour or so reading in the community living room. We arrived in Picton in plenty of time, checked in an eventually drove onto the ferry. The crossing has been a little rough with 3 meter swells. We will be staying at another Backpacker Hostel in Wellington for the next two nights. 

    Northern most point on South Island 

    Anchorage Bay

    Along the Abel Tasman Track

    Aurelie and Maud at the brewery tour

    The Free Bar

    From the ferry

Wednesday-Saturday, March 29-April 1, 2017 - Up the west coast and back to the interior

Just to prove that we are on the other side of the world and in the Southern Hemisphere tonight we set the clock back one hour.

Our plan this morning was to visit Fox Glacier and then meet Aurelie and Maud at the Visitor Center of Franz Josef Glacier at 1:00. We pulled into the Fox Glacier parking lot about 11:00 and took the hike to the viewpoint of the Glacier. About 3/4 of the way up we spotted Aurelie and Maud making the same trip. The Glacier view was good but not great. Aurelie and Maud wanted to do a long hike at the Franz Josef Glacier so we followed them to the trailhead where Susan and I found a shorter hike to a viewpoint below the Glacier. Our hike was about two hours and gave us some good views of the Glacier. We decided to meet at the Okarito Campground which is right on the ocean about 45 minutes north of the Glacier. We pitched the tent and went for a walk on the beach. We were just finishing dinner when the ladies arrived. 

Thursday morning had us driving our separate cars to Greymouth where Aurelie and Maud turned their car in and we managed to combine all the gear and ourselves into one car. I need to back up about a week or so and mention that when John and I finished the Heaphy Track he left his SPOT on top of a fence post. When he returned about an hour later to retrieve it it was gone. John called the DOC (Department of Conservation) to report it missing in case someone turned it in. Well miracles do happen and I got a call from DOC on Monday that it had been turned into their office in Westport. Amazing. We drove through there today and I was able to pick it up. Not even a detour! The four of us stayed in a two bedroom unit in Karamea which is the last town before the Heaphy. Aurelie and Maud fixed us dinner and we all had a wonderful evening.

Friday morning had us up at 6:30 so Aurelie and Maud could get an early start and also because Susan and I had a long drive ahead of us to Hamner Springs. The Heaphy trailhead is about a 20 minute drive north of Karamea and is the end of the road on the west coast. After dropping them off and taking a few pictures we drove south for a few kilometers and pulled off the road to take a sunrise stroll on the beach. We arrived in Hamner Springs about 3:00 and checked into the Settlers Motel where John and I stayed sometime in early March. The plan was to spend two days here so I could have a day without driving. We walked around town for a while and then had dinner and a couple of beers. Yes, Susan joined me for a beer. How cool is that?

Today we had a very leisurely morning and this afternoon we took a long hike in the mountains above Hamner Springs. We had intended to visit the hot springs but just get around to it. We went to 5:00 Mass at the very small local church. On the way in we met the priest who I'm sure is in his 70s and says Sunday Mass in five different communities. Tonight Susan fixed a fabulous dinner of grilled lamb chops, grilled pepper, carrots and a salad. Susan is cleaning up while I finish this. We will head out for a short walk around town before calling it a night.

    Ocean view

    Susan playing in a waterfall 

    Franz Josef Glacier 

    At Pancake Rocks

    Aurelie and Maud ready to start the Heaphy 

    On today's hike