Sweathog and Mountain Woman: April 12-26 Colorado River through the Grand Canyon

Colorado River through the Grand Canyon

Report by Susan

4/12/2018 Started driving at 6 pm because Rod the Bod Stewart cancelled his concert 3 hours before show time, due to a conflicting schedule! Not sure how that happens. Drove 300 miles and slept at a rest area before driving another 500 miles to Bryce Canyon. Hit only the high points, no hiking as the wind was blowing gale forces with a chill factor of maybe 25 degrees. We spent the night at a RV Park in Kanab. The facility was very clean and we had a couple of beers while we watched the sun set. We took our time the next morning and on the way to Cliff Dwellers Ed found a Forest Service road where we drove off the highway about a half mile and had a very peaceful lunch. We arrived at Cliff Dwellers Motel early the next afternoon and took a great hike down Cathedral Drainage all the way to the Colorado River. My first taste of rock hopping and 5-6 foot drops was quite challenging but I got much better as the trip progressed. Later I learned a new term, use your fifth appendage, i.e. your butt. I did this a lot in the days to come.

We all met on Sunday morning for trip instructions. There were 16 of us plus our Boatman and Swamper. There were two couples from Colorado, two couples from North Dakota, 4 younger women from

Arizona, one of which was on the 2015 trip with Peg and Ed. These women were quite the fashion show but were all pretty tough.

The couple we liked most was from Cooperstown, New York. We hope to hook up again. They invited us to come stay with them when Derek Jeter is inducted in to the Baseball Hall of Fame. After an afternoon of light rapids the day ended with a great steak dinner. We slept under the stars, beautiful Big Dipper. I told Ed by the end of the trip everyone would be doing it.

We awoke to the smell of coffee and bacon! Our eggs were cooked to order! Bigger rapids today but it got terribly windy in the afternoon. We still slept under the stars, our tent blew over in spite of rocks and all our gear in it. Needless to say we had sand in our eyes,ears,teeth, sleeping bags and pillows. Group coming together nicely. All enjoyable folks. That being said, one woman talked incessantly! It became very annoying so we always hung back on the hikes to have some peace. Of course I was the slowest anyway!

Another beautiful day. Food continues to be different and excellent everyday. Most people are starting to get into the camp work routine. Ed, of course was the leader, as he knew the process. He was a third hired hand and much appreciated. Conga line to load and unload tents, cots, sleeping gear, chairs, hand washing stations, kitchen gear etc. Each person set up our own camps, bathed in river and when the appetizers came out all came back with their own BYOB. Today’s hike was up a side Canyon to a Hanging Garden. In so desolate a landscape, it was amazing to climb to an oasis with a waterfall surrounded by maiden hair ferns and columbine. It was stunning and nice and cool. There would many more such spots.

Our Boatman’s name was JP, never new what it was short for. Ed and Peg had him on the their 2015 trip. He has been doing these trips for 30 years! He was so excellent, his knowledge of the Canyon history, the geology and expertise in the rapids was outstanding. He had a funny dry sense of humor and kept us entertained. Our Swamper, was Zak. He was a jack of all trades and did all the cooking. The term,Swamper, actually originated in the days when rafts were not self bailing.

Tonight it rained on us at midnight but we were prepared with tarps in place just in case. What a mess.

Today the rain continues, we stopped at Phantom Ranch. I have always wanted to go here. We exchanged our incessant talker here and took on another passenger for the lower river, a Veterinarian from Denver. She was even more annoying! Knew it all,been every where, I,I,I. Guess there is one in every crowd. The rain continued all afternoon through some of the biggest rapids on the trip. The young ladies from Arizona had pretty much monopolized the "bath tub", this is the front of the raft. They were very miserable and it took awhile to get them warmed up. They described Crystal Falls as being water boarded. Amazingly, once we stopped for the night, Zak had whipped up an amazing soup. So far Ed and I have stayed in the "tea room", behind the mountain of gear. Much dryer and warmer and the only place we could hear all the history, stories and joking going on!

Today we awakened to the sun! After loading up we travelled several miles to the entrance of the Little Colorado River. It is the most amazing color of blue, something to do with the calcium carbonate makes it so. It took awhile to mix with the stunning emerald green of the main flow. It was a little warmer, not much. There was a rapid that several people floated down. We did not, I was having some dizziness which pickle juice cured almost immediately! I drank a lot of gatorade but, evidently, not enough. Rapids are getting bigger! I tried riding the side tube today. Pretty exciting but had to hang on for dear life. Once was enough! Weather is beautiful again and getting hotter with each day. Oops this is out of order and was actually day three.

Up to great pancakes and sausage. Afternoon hike today is steep and rocky. It is up to a cache of four windows in the wall of the Canyon. This was where the Indians stored their corn. It is hard to believe humans survived here but we are seeing plenty of evidence that they did. On this morning’s hike, we saw hand prints on a very steep canyon wall. They were quite small so it is surmised that they were probably a rite of passage for young men when they crossed over the gorge. It is estimated they are 500 years old. We also say another stash of corn cobs in a recessed hole in wall. They still had kernels of corn on them, also hundreds of years old.

I have given up trying to remember the names of the different layers of rock in the Canyon and whether they are 2 billion years old or only 7 million. The contrast between the red walls and the deep green of the river is so amazing. It is all so fantastic. Makes us feel like just specks in time.

Today’s side Canyon hike, like so many others had a waterfall and a pool to swim in. It was possible to jump from the top of the falls. Only one taker, our friend Linda, but she backed off even after Zak did a demo. Our afternoon hike was hard and hot. It wound back to an old mining camp with tools,a stove door utensils etc. beautiful spot. They were mining asbestos.

I am running out of adjectives for this challenging and incredible trip. Today we took the day off and sat on the long sandy beach, put our chairs in the river, had a beer and read! I was really in need of the down time. Battered,bruised and burned but so lucky to make the trip.

Today our hike took us up to a large hole in the Canyon wall we had seen earlier in the morning. Along the way we found pottery chards from ancient tribes. We are beginning to see evidence of ancient volcanic activity. When we got to the window most people looked down over the river, Ed did but not me, we were 200 feet up above the river and it was windy! Salmon and a pineapple upside down cake done in a Dutch oven! We had delicious brisket last night. Great meals and plenty of food!

Last full day on River. We have seen many big horn sheep which we are told is very unusual for this time of year. Lots of babies. There presence is probably due to the 19 year drought that is taking a toll. Hiked up Havasu Canyon. Ed and I stopped at a great spot with rapids, pools and more beauty. Everyone else went on up to other pools so we pretty much had it to ourselves. What a little piece of heaven. We ate our lunch and read. This afternoon is the biggest rapid, Lava Falls. It is called a fall because is drops 39 feet over 200 yards! Once over the initial drop, JP, circled back twice to do most of it again, for this, Ed and I SAT IN THE BATH TUB! So fun, so drenching and so cold! Had pork loin tonight and repacked our gear,exchanged addresses.

Helicopter will be here at 0700 for an 8 minute ride to Bar 10 Ranch where we caught a 40 minute flight on a fixed wing plane that held 19 folks. Some people off to Vegas, others driving home each in a different direction. A trip of a lifetime. As for us, we have 10 more days of sightseeing and hiking in Canyonlands and Moab. Stay tuned!

We can not say enough about the Hatch River Expeditions. Their attention to safety, cleanliness,hand washing,toileting arrangements were always handled discretely with cleanliness in mind. It is a monumental undertaking to stage a trip like this. The attention to detail and organization was precise. Everything had a place and the order it had to be loaded was critical to balancing the boat. Every breakfast, appetizer, snack on hikes had variety, the cuts of meat were excellent. Two hundred pounds of ice were used on this trip. Water,lemonade,coffee,tea and soup and fresh fruit were available at all times. Accommodations for a C-PAP machine were made. We can’t wait to bring Emily and Ryan back next June 12th. Already booked.

Bryce Canyon