Saturday-Tuesday, March 25-28, 2017 - Heading south and west

We left Fay and Phil's home around 9:00 after a great breakfast and headed to Te Anau about a seven hour drive. Te Anau is a small resort community on the SE shore of Lake Te Anau which is the largest lake in the South Island. We arrived mid afternoon, checked into our hotel and took a two hour hike along the shore. We had hoped for a great sunset but were thwarted by increasing clouds. Oh well.

On Sunday we had a short 2 1/2 hour drive to Milford Sound. Although it was raining we took a couple of short hikes on the way. The highlight of the day for both of us was the number of waterfalls we saw coming into Milford Sound. Because of the rocky mountainous terrain and the rain the waterfalls were constant. At one stop by the side of the road we saw no less than twenty five. Some were 400-500' high. We checked into the lodge where we had our own room but we shared bathroom facilities. We had "happy hour" in the dining room that overlooked the high mountains and many waterfalls.

Monday morning had us up at 5:00 as we had to meet at the boat dock for our 6:30 date to kayak in Milford Sound. We were in a tandem kayak and although we worked our asses off we had a fabulous experience. We travelled about 3/4 of the length of the sound toward the ocean and then were transported by motorboat back to the start point. We then backtracked to Te Anau and then drove to Queenstown which is situated on the shore of Lake Wakatipu. From the deck of our room we were able to see the lake. We did some laundry and relaxed before heading out to dinner. I checked Aurelie and Maud's itinerary and saw that that were also in Queenstown. I was able to phone Aurelie and we met for dinner. It was great to see her again and have her meet Susan. Maud is a friend of Aurelie's from grammar school. There is a tram within walking distance to a high point overlooking the city so we decided that on Tuesday morning we would hike up to the top and take the tram down.

We had breakfast in our room, checked out and walked to the tram. The hike to the top took us 1 1/2 hours which was a nice little workout for us with a reward of great views from the top. We headed back down via the tram and then drove to Haast which is a very small burg on the west central coast. Haast was just a stopping point on our way to view Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers and head north along the coast to drop Aurelie and Maud off at the coast starting point of the Heaphy Track. We had no cell service in Haast but were able to get internet.

    On the shore of Lake Te Anau

    In Milford Sound

    Milford Sound 

    Tram hike

Thursday-Saturday, March 23-25, 2017 - Starting adventure with Susan

All went well at the airport for both John and Susan. It sure is great to be back with her. We are calling this trip our honeymoon.

Susan and I went back to the hotel and relaxed for a while before heading out to walk around Christchurch. I wanted to show Susan some of the earthquake damage near the center of town. We then walked through Canterbury University where there was also a lot of damage. Most importantly I wanted to show Susan the Botanical Gardens. We spent about two hours there and I know Susan could spend many more hours there. We had dinner at an Irish Pub (the best meal out so far) and our waitress was from Northern Ireland. She was a toddler during the "Conflict" and we talked a little about her life there.

We left mid morning on Friday for a visit to Fay and Phil Gray who I met on the Alaskan cruise I was on last July. They live on a working farm just outside of Ashburton. Fay gave us a tour of the house and property while Phil was out harvesting barley. It was a great visit and we hope to see them on their next trip to the States.

We left after breakfast for the eight hour drive to Te Anau. We had rain for about half of the drive. Just before the town of Dunedin we were right along the ocean so we stopped for a short stroll on the beach. Upon our arrival we checked into our motel and took a long walk along the lake and then sat on a bench to see the sunset which due to the increasing cloud cover we missed. We had pizza and beer for dinner and are now relaxing in the room. 

Did I mention that it's great to have Susan here.

    Fay and Phil

    At Lake Te Anau

    The marina

Wednesday, March 22, 2017 - Christchurch

This morning we finished the last of our instant oatmeal along with a couple cups of Via. We headed back to Christchurch via Highway 73 which crosses the interior mountains at Arthur's Pass. At one point the grade was 16%. The trucks were going mighty slow. 

We stopped at the Arthur's Pass Visitor Center and decided to take a short hike to Punchbowl Falls. It was a fairly short hike but there were 336 steps. Yes, I counted.

When we arrived in Christchurch we headed to the Antarctic Center to pick up some beanie hats that we saw on our first trip there and should've purchased but didn't.

One our way to the hotel on Colombo St. where we stayed at the beginning of our trip I did some shopping for the next few days of our trip. The plan is to have cold cereal or oatmeal for breakfast and sandwiches for lunch. Susan and I will then have dinners out.

For dinner John and I tried a highly recommended Mexican restaurant that for my money was very expensive with small portions and not very good. 

We will head to the airport around 8:00. John's flight to Auckland is at 11:00 and Susan arrives at 10:30. John and I had a great time together and I'm very glad he was able to make the trip with me. 

For the record; no man alive has better sons-in-law than me.

    Viaduct at Arthur's Pass

    On the way to Punchbowl Waterfall 

    Punchbowl Falls

    An attempt at a selfie 

Tuesday, March 21, 2017 - Greymouth

Mit and his Cessna met us at the Karamea Airport at 8:00 for the flight back to Takaka. Larissa and Pierre were also on the flight. We took off and flew north along the coast and then inland at the Heaphy River. We were able to follow the Track all the way from our end point to the start at Brown Hut. Most of the time we were only 500' above the ground. It was very cool and we were able to recognize many of the Huts, bridges and features that we had travelled.

We had breakfast in Takaka and decided to head to Greymouth on the west coast so as not to travel the same roads we took from Christchurch to Takaka. We started out in sunshine but it was raining when we got to Greymouth. 

We checked into a hotel and then went to Monteith Brewery for a couple of beers and dinner. 

    The Track along the ocean

    The Heaphy River and Hut 

    With Mit's plane

Monday, March 20, 2017 - Karamea

As luck would have it the six additional bunks in the room we were in were occupied by the six "Gourmet" women. It became obvious early on that having plenty of money doesn't equate to good trail/Hut etiquette. John and I were already in bed when the "ladies" came in headlamps a blazing and mouths running. As the one sleeping in the bunk above John climbed the ladder she said " oh no", got off the ladder and went out the door. A couple of minutes later she returned with the male guide who was instructed to kill the spider on the wall. When he said that he had killed it she wanted him to open the napkin to prove it. 

Our plan was to get up about 7:00 but the "ladies" had other plans. Just before 6:00 the watch alarms went off and after a few minutes (I didn't know that watches had a snooze button) headlamps were all on and gums were bumping. Once they cleared the room were got up. Oh well.

After a great breakfast ( you already know what we had) we were off for the 20 km hike to Kohaihai the end point of the Heaphy Track. The entire trip was along the ocean, sometimes very close to the beach and other times inland a little. John spotted a seal on the beach which was the only wildlife other than birds that we had seen. Today's hike was my favorite of the trip.

We arrived at Kohaihai just before 1:00 and called for a ride to our lodging for the night. After checking in we went to the local pub and shared a few beers and dinner with Charlie (Switzerland), Larissa (Germany) and Pierre (France) who we met on the trail at the MacKay Hut. Larissa and Pierre are traveling together.

I have thoroughly enjoyed my time on the Heaphy Track and having John along made it extra special.

    Trail near the ocean

    From inland

    Near the end

Sunday, March 19, 2017 - Heaphy Hut

Since we had a longer day today we decided to get up at 6:30 and begin our standard routine of Via followed by oatmeal. We left the Hut at 7:45. Today's hike was 20.5 km and ended at the Pacific Ocean. 

The first 12.5 km was almost exclusively downhill and ended at the Lewis Hut and the Heaphy River. We stopped there for an extended break. The remaining 8 km followed the river with limited ups and downs. The trail along the river was very much like walking through a jungle canopy. We had some periods of rain but not enough to put on the pack cover or a rain jacket.

We arrived at the Hut at 1:30 and had our lunch. The location of the Hut is at the confluence of the Heaphy River and the Pacific Ocean. The weather cleared and it has gotten quite warm.

John and I took a long walk along the beach. Peg would have truly loved this place. I did stick a foot in the ocean and took a sip of salt water in her honor. 

For the last two days we have been joined at the Hut by a group of six women who were part of an outfitted group called Gourmet Trekkers. The guides were a man and a woman who I would guess to be in their mid to late 20s. They carry and amazing amount of fresh food and spend a couple of hours preparing dinner. There were six bottles of wine on the table tonight. Fortunately for the guides the wine is stored at the Huts. Their trip is four days and three nights and costs $1,995 a head. Wow! 

    Lewis Hut 

    Suspension Bridge over the Heaphy River 

    John crossing the bridge 

    The "Jungle" Track

    Heaphy Hut 

    Beach at Heaphy Hut

Saturday, March 18, 2017 - James MacKay Hut

We were up at the usual time with the usual breakfast but we really took our time as today's hike was only 11.8 km. My guess is that the track today was 35% uphill, 45% downhill and 20% level.

We passed 5 or 6 people headed in the opposite direction and one guy who stayed where we stayed the first night passed us. He must have gotten a very early start. One of the people who were headed in the opposite direction has an interesting job. He transports people's car keys so they meet their car when they are finished the trek. He drives their car from one end to the other day (50 km) and then hikes back too give hem their key. He appeared to be older than me and does the entire Heaphy Track in two days. That's a total of 80 km. He does this two or three times a week. That's one way to stay in shape.

We arrived at the Hut at 12:30 and this is the nicest and newest Hut on the Track having been built in 2014. There are 28 bunks and it even has two flush toilets. We also have a view of the Pacific Ocean where the Heaphy River flows into it.

After lunch we did a short but very steep hike to Mt. Otero which I would guess is 200 meters above the Hut. We did have a 360 degree view and were able to see back to where we spent the first night. Several of the surrounding peaks we in the clouds.

We will spend the rest of the day reading and relaxing. Tomorrow it's back to sea level.

    Sunrise at Saxon Hut 

    View of MacKay Hut from side trail after we arrived 

    From the trail

Friday, March 17, 2017 - Saxon Hut

Last night was a nearly full Hut and there were 4 people camping. Some were in bed right after dinner and some were up late. Fortunately the room we were in (10 people) had a door so we were able to block out much of the noise from the community room.

We were up just before 7:00 with our usual breakfast of Via and oatmeal and were on the trail at 8:30. Today's hike was only 12.4 km. We stopped at the Gotland Downs Hut at 7 km for an extended break. Some of the people who stayed there last night were just leaving.

We arrived at the Saxon Hut at 12:15 so we will have a very relaxing afternoon. We had lunch upon our arrival along with several trekkers that are going on to the next Hut. I washed my socks and have been sitting out in the sunshine all afternoon. It is another crystal clear days and I would guess the temperatures to be in the mid 60s.

Another great day.

    John at break time 

    From the trail

     Saxon Hut 

    John relaxing outside Saxon Hut 

    Sunset 

Thursday, March 16, 2017 - Perry Saddle Hut

I'm sure there are better ways to spend ones 67th birthday but I don't need to find them. What a wonderful day.

We were up at 6:30 and had our coffee and oatmeal. We made our final pack adjustments, checked out and headed to the Takaka Airport. We arrived at 7:45 and met our pilot, Mit, shortly after that. Mit has a four seat Cessna and would be taking us to a grass airstrip just short of Brown Hut and the start of the Heaphy Track.

We were on the trail at 8:45 heading to the Perry Saddle Hut which was 17.5 km away and nearly 900 meters above us. Almost every step of today's hike was uphill but most of the grade was quite gentle. We took a half hour break for lunch and arrived at the hut at 2:45. We were the first ones here but the peace and quiet didn't last long. The Hut sleeps 24 and will be full tonight.

There was a sign for a "Mountain Spa" so I hiked down for a look. It is just a wide spot in the creek but I figured I'd give it a try. No one was there so I stripped downloaded to my underwear and went in. Very refreshing but very cold. I lasted about two minutes.

The Hut comes with propane stoves so fixing our dinners will be a snap. It is a clear day with temperatures in the mid 60s. We'll have dinner in an hour or so and then just continue to relax.

    From the plane on the way to Brown Hut 

    Ready to begin 

    View from the trail

    Perry Saddle Hut 

    View from the deck 

Wednesday, March 15, 2017 - Takaka

Happy Birthday Dad

We survived the night in the worst motel imaginable. The place smelled, the floor was so warped that the bathroom door wouldn't even begin to close and there was truck traffic all night. At least all the noise cancelled any snoring sounds either of us made.

We were up at our usual 7:00 and were savoring our Via shortly thereafter. John had oatmeal and I dared to try a blueberry muffin at the motel cafe. I feel lucky that it was 90% cooked.

I received a call from Neil at the rental place in Greymouth at 9:00 telling me that the rims had arrived and were on their way to Springs Junction. Wow, at least an hour ahead of schedule. The rims were delivered about 10:30 and we were out of there by 11:30. We lost 24 hours of the trip and $1,000. Such is life.

Somewhere amidst all of the goings on with my little accident the rental agreement paperwork was lost so we decided to go a little out of our way today to the Apex office in Nelson to get it reprinted. While in Nelson we stopped at a local brewpub for a couple of beers. The Porter was excellent.

After that it was a pleasant two hour drive to Takaka. We checked into the motel (a beautiful place and only $8 more than last night) and then drove out to the airport to see where we catch our shuttle in the morning. We fueled up the car, did some last minute shopping and will be heading out to dinner soon.

Tomorrow starts the Heaphy Track; a five day, four night trip. I won't be posting again until the 20th or 21st.

    The Tasman Sea

    Tasman Sea 2

    View from near the top of Takaka Hill

Tuesday, March 14, 2017 - Springs Junction

The day started with a great breakfast and a ride in the rain towards Nelson, about a six hour drive.

Then the shit hit the fan. I was coming up on a one lane bridge, got too far left and hit the curb hard. The impact completely destroyed the left side rims and tires. I was able to pull off on the side of the road and immediately checked for cell service and of course the was none. We were "way" out in the country. We decided that I would hitchhike the 12 miles to the nearest burg of Springs Junction and try to get help. John would stay with the car and gear.

After about 10 minutes with no luck I was able to flag down a Highway Patrolman who said he would stop in Springs Junction and sent a wrecker. About an hour later we were in the very small burg of Springs Junction at the service/gas station. They had the tires but no rims. I called the rental car company in Greymouth to give them the bad news. Of course the first thing Neil said was that all necessary repairs were on me which I already knew.

The good news was there is a Toyota dealer in Greymouth but of course they didn't have rims there. They could ship them in and have them tomorrow at 10:00 and then have them couriered to Springs Junction hopefully arriving here by noon. 

So now we had to find a place to spend the night. There was a "dive" motel across the street and we got the last room. It smells really bad , the floor sags and there are cobwebs everywhere. This is the price we are paying for my stupidity. We are going to sleep in our sleeping bags on top of the covers.

Hopefully tomorrow will be better.

    Our digs for the night

    Rear

    Front

Monday, March 13, 2017 - Hamner Springs

We were up at 7:00 and had our morning Starbucks Via and breakfast of instant oatmeal and fruit. There was a laundry facility on site so we each planned to wash our very wet and very stinky clothes. The rental car company picked me up at about 8:30 and John stayed behind to finish the laundry.

We checked out at 10:15 and headed into town for some shopping. First stop was a camping store where I purchased butane for my stove and four freeze dried dinner for the upcoming backpack trip. Then we found a grocery store for lunch meat, cheese, granola bars, trail mix and other miscellaneous items. I asked for a styrofoam cooler and they had no idea what I wanted. We finally figured out that I wanted a "chilly box". They didn't have one but pointed me in the right direction. 

Shopping completed we had lunch and then headed north with the plan to get to Blenheim on the northeast coast. Shortly after leaving Christchurch we saw signs indicating a road closure and detour. To make a very long story short we misread/misinterpreted the signs and ended up with a four hour screwup. There was no way that we were going to make Blenheim so we ended up in the small resort town of Hamner Springs. We got a great room that was perfect for couples but way too nice for us.

Tomorrow we will head to Nelson which is fairly close to the start point of our backpack trip starting Thursday morning.

No pictures today as it rained all day.

Sunday, March 12, 2017 - Christchurch

Very harsh weather cannot spoil a grand adventure!

Last nights stay at Anatini Farmstay although very much like a B&B, which is one of my least favorite places to stay, was by far the best yet. Margaret and John Hore have an amazing place and were fantastic hosts. Margaret's garden would make both Peg and Susan smile. Unfortunately due to the rain I didn't take any pictures. Their kitchen and living room are combined and that is where spent most of our relaxing time in front of the wood stove. We were there with another couple who started the A2O the same day as we did.

We also learned that much of one of the three "Chronicles of Narnia" films was largely filmed on their property.  Unfortunately, I don't remember which one.  They shared some of their memorabilia with us.  It was fascinating.

We left about 8:30 in a steady rain. It had been raining all night so much of the track was quite sloppy. Temperatures were in the high 40s. Many have heard me say "there's no such thing as bad weather only bad gear". Well unfortunately our "gear" wasn't up to the task and in no time we were thoroughly soaked. Our jackets performed fairly well but the rain pants failed miserably. Fortunately is we kept moving we were able to keep relatively warm.

We completed the 47 km (just under 30 miles) at about 12:15. A very nice woman got out of her car in the rain to snap some pictures of us. We covered a total of 301 km (186.62 miles) and had a fantastic time. I haven't ridden that far since Pat and I did the Natchez Trace Parkway; probably in the late 80s. It was truly a wonderful experience for both John and I.

We gathered our luggage, took a $5 shower (worth every penny) and caught a ride to the bus stop for the trip back to Christchurch. The two buses we took to get to the airport to pickup the rental car were running behind schedule and by the time we got to the airport the rental counter was closed. So we caught a cab to our hotel and will pick up the car in the morning. All local restaurants were closed so we had to settle for gas station grub and no celebratory beer.

All in all a great day and trip.  Thanks to John for the companionship.

    Trails end

    Happy campers

    Without the bikes

    Complete with road spray

Saturday, March11, 2017 - Anatini Farmstay

We were up a 7:00 and had our breakfast in the room. Breakfast consisted of Starbucks Via coffee, instant oatmeal and a few protein bars. We were on the road at 8:30 in a light rain and a slight headwind. The ride to Anatini Farmstay (basically a B&B) was a relatively easy 35 km (22 miles).

After 5 km we stopped at the Kurow Pasquale Winery where we stopped for coffee and we also purchased a bottle of wine for this evening. The trail between Kurow and the small town of Duntroon mainly follows the Waitaki River. Just before reaching Duntroon we stopped to see some Maori Rock Art. Much of the area had been vandalized and it was difficult to see the "art". The town of Duntroon has seen better times as there was nothing there but a few homes.

From there we had about 7 km to our home for the night. On the way we stopped at Elephant Rocks. Not much to see but an excuse to get off the bikes. We are staying at a lovely home that is well of the beaten path. Our hosts are Margaret and John who have lived here for 52 years.

    Most of today's track was like this 

    Maori rock art

    Elephant Rock

Friday, March 10, 2017 - Kurow

We left the room about 8:15. It was cooler this morning so I started with my jacket on. Today's ride was Sections 5 & 6, a total of 66 km. There were two big hills both of which I did some walking. The ride took us past several lakes and three hydro dams, two of which we crossed over the dam.

We had a tailwind for most of the last half of the ride and arrived in Kurow just before 2:00. Kurow is a very small town with a small grocery, limited accommodations and three or four places to eat. Once again we will be joining Alex and Dexter for dinner.

Rain is forecasted for tomorrow. 

    Lake Benmore in the morning mist

    From Benmore Dam

    Lake Aviemore

    Time for a Kodak moment

    Break time