July 31, 2015 - West Highland Way recap

Today we did a little walking around town, shopped for some books for me, did a little grocery shopping, and found an indoor pool where Peg was able to swim for about 90 minutes.

By my GPS readings we hiked a total of 85.98 miles in seven days. We had one day with no rain. Temperatures varied very little with lows in the mid 50s and highs in the mid 60s. We just finished our store bought dinner at the B&B while watching the news and found out the this has been Scotland's wettest July ever. When we did get sun the colors were all the more brilliant, the cloud patterns caused some beautiful light patterns on the mountains and great shadows as it filtered through the forests.

The trail conditions ranged from a little road walking to some very rough scrambling. What we originally thought was rough trail after a few days was welcomed. The trails were always wet and through some of the bogs we were in over our ankles. There was very little level hiking but only a few severe ups and downs. Peg counted her blessings when she got twenty feet in a row of smooth trail. Her walking sticks are her new best friends. 

The wild flowers were abundant - purple fox glove everywhere, lots of daisies, yellow sinq foil, lavender fire weed, purple tyme and heather just to name a few. Peg saw her first shamrocks in a conifer forest on day seven. We traveled through forests of oak, birch, Hawthorne, and several types of evergreen.

We have enjoyed the food so far. We still haven't braved the haggis. A full Scotish breakfast starts with fruit, cold cereal, coffee and tea. The hot portion consists of any or all of eggs, porridge, bacon, sausage, potato scone, tomato, beans, mushrooms and toast. Sometimes the combinations are not what we are used to such as lasagna served with French fries. The coffee has been quite weak and I'm looking for to the possibility of a Starbucks in Edinburgh.

We started and ended with many of the same people although rarely walking with them during the day. The ones we saw most of were two couples from Australia, a couple and their son (age 12) from  Germany, a single woman from Australia, a couple and a single woman from California and thee couples from Holland.

We really enjoyed the Scotish countryside and are looking forward to our next leg from Fort William to Inverness starting Sunday.

July 30, 2015 - Rest day and train trip to Mallaig

Today's stats: 0 miles, 0 elevation gain, 0 elevation loss 

I tried to book tickets for us on the Jacobite Steam Train that travels from Fort William to Mallaig online about a week ago but none were available. When we arrived here we found out that a limited number of tickets were available each morning at 9:00 for the 10:15 departure. 

We had breakfast at 7:45 and headed to the train station. There were several people in the waiting room but no one out on the platform where the tickets were to be sold and was the first in line. Damn Americans! Two couples grumbled so I let them in front of me. I'm glad that's all as we got the last seats and at that we had to sit in different cars on the way back. As the steam engine pulled up I thought our friends Pete Taylor and Bill Fencl who are train buffs.

The train route was mostly through the countryside with rolling hills, mountain views and glimpses of the ocean. When we arrived at the small port town of Mallaig we had lunch, walked around town and visited St. Patrick's RC Church.

When we got back to Fort William we stopped at a couple of used book stores as I am in need of a new read. I didn't find anything but we will look again tomorrow. All in all a very good, restful day.

    From Mallaig 

    Engine controls 

    The coaches 

    Stained glass in St. Patrick's. We noticed the nautical theme

July 29, 2015 - Kinlochleven to Fort William

Happy anniversary Linda and Paul Bucca

Stats for the day: 18.96 miles, 2,187 elevation gain, 2,125 elevation loss 

We made it! We are settled in at the B&B where we will be resting up until Sunday morning when  we start the Great Glen Way. 

Aside from the long miles the trail was very rocky road and wet today. 

I'll provide a recap tomorrow.

    Leaving Kinlochleven 

    Wow. Some blue sky 

    New friends. L-R. Pat, Lawrence, Bob, Iris

    One of many climbs today

    Ben Nevis. Highest point in Great Britian 

    Wow!

    View from our window 

July 28, 2015 - King House Hotel to Kinlochleven

Today's stats: 10.14 miles, 1,408' elevation gain, 2,032' elevation loss 

What a surprise! It was raining this morning when we started out at 8:45. It was just a light rain or drizzle so we both decided to forego the rain gear. I did the entire hike without rain gear and Peg about 3/4 of it. I have found that waterproof, breathable rain gear is only breathable if you don't move or elevate your heart rate and I get overheated in the gear. 

The first couple of miles were alongside the main road and quite loud with all of the traffic. We then turned uphill to tackle the "Devils Staircase" to the highest point on the West Highland Way. Other than being very rocky it was quite easy. Then it was up and down for several miles until the long decent into Kinlochleven. Kinlochleven is a planned factory town built around an aluminum smelting business which operated until 2001. Kinlochleven has reinvented itself as a major outdoor activity center. The old smelter building has been transformed into the biggest indoor articulated rock climbing and ice wall in Britian. I have not seen anything like it at home. The "aluminum museum" was also very interesting and we got to watch a 30 minute video of the history of the town.

Tomorrow is our last day on the Way with a 15 mile hike into Fort William where we will be back at sea level.

    Leading the way 

    Starting the "Devils Staircase"

    Pipes to carry water from a reservoir to a power plant that was used in the smelting 

    plant

    Our accommodation 

    Ice wall

    Climbing wall

July 27, 2015 - Inveroran Hotel to Kings House Hotel, Glencoe

Stats for the day: 10.7 miles, 921' elevation gain, 690' elevation loss.

The rain let up only sporadically last night and we left in a steady, gusty rain at 8:20. At first the wind was at our backs but after a mile or so it was pretty much directly in our faces. We were pretty well covered up and I did have some dry clothes in the day pack if needed. 

We travelled across the wilds of Rannoch Moor, the most desolate part of Scotland. There is no habitation in a 50 square mile area. We followed General Wades military road which was built in the 1700s and has been somewhat maintained for the West Highland Way. There were several miles of cobblestone trail that was very slippery and tough on the feet. It rained for the entire hike but at least it was never a pouring rain.

We didn't stop at all and arrived at the hotel about 12:30. It was too early to check in but they had a drying room where we were able to change out of our wet clothes and change into the dry ones. We went into the bar and ate the bagged lunch we purchased at the Inveroran Hotel and had a beer and a glass of wine. We were able to get into the room about 1:30 and Peg took a long hot bath. Our luggage arrived at 2:30. Still no wifi; probably not until Wednesday in Fort William.

Tomorrow is another short day to Kinlochleven.

    One of many stream crossings

    Rannoch Moor

    General Wades military road 

    Self explanatory 

July 26, 2015 - Taxi from Ardlui to Tyrdrum; Hike from Tyrdrum toInveroran

No internet here. May not be able to post until Fort William on the 29th.

Today's totals: 9.99 miles hiked, 1,073' elevation gain, 1,138 elevation loss

World Expeditions itinerary for today was to take a taxi from Ardlui to Crianlarich and then hike 16 miles to Inveroran. The weather was supposed to be very windy and rainy starting in mid afternoon so we decided to have the taxi take us to Tyndrum and have a 10 mile hike and try to beat the weather. Imagine me listening to the voice of reason. Peg said it was her good influence on me. I said it only took her 48 years and wondered what she had in mind for the next 48? All in all it was a good plan since as we approached Inveroran the wind picked up and the rain started. We arrived here about 3:00 so it has been a relaxing afternoon. Peg even got in a short nap.

The taxi dropped us off in Tyndrum at 10:15. The trail to Bridge of Orchy was mostly very good and we covered the 6 1/2 miles with ease. The trail was so good that Peg was able to take the lead for long stretches and got a break from looking at my backside.

We ate our packed lunch at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel and headed uphill on a rocky trail for about 2 miles and then downhill for the last bit to the Inveroran Hotel.

Tomorrow we have a 12 1/2 mile hike up, down and through the Moors of Scotland. It will most likely be our worst day of weather to date. We are prepared.

    Peg truckin'

    Beinn Dorain top right

    Scottish Highland cattle 

    Leaving Bridge of Orchy 

    With a cairn like this who could miss the trail? Loch Tulla in the background 

    Getting close to the Inveroran Hotel 

July 25, 2015 - Rowardennan to Ardlui

Praise the Lord; this is the first day since we arrived on July 10 that we have had no rain. Stats: 14.3 miles and 1,902' elevation gain.

Today was the tale of two very different hikes. This morning we left Rowardennan at about 9:15 and arrived in Inversnaid about 12:45. The trail was smooth and very well graded and we cruised. We had lunch in a picnic area near the Hotel Inversnaid very close to Loch Lomond. The lunch packed by the folks at Anchorage Cottage was the best yet.

We had been told that the stretch from Inversnaid to Ardlui was the hardest stretch of the West Highland Way and I sure hope they were right as it was some of the toughest hiking I have done and was very hard on Peg with all of the rock stepping both with steep ups and downs. As hard as it was the scenery was great; nothing super dramatic just general beauty. (Pete Wuelfing should never do this hike as one stage would take him a week for all of the picture taking). But we made it and that hot shower and glass of wine was a great reward.

The Ardlui Hotel is an the western side of Loch Lomond so we had to catch a ferry across the loch. You signal the ferry by raising a buoy on a flag pole. It worked! We are now at dinner and will soon be retiring for the evening.

We have hiked almost the entire length of Loch Lomond. Loch Lomond is the largest area of fresh water in Britian; 23 miles long and up to 5 miles wide. Its southern end is dotted with most of the 38 islands which have been lived on at one time or another. 

    Early on

    One of dozens of cascades

    Hospitality in the middle of nowhere 

    Lunch 

    The trail?

    More trail?

    Signaling for the ferry

July 24, 2015 - Drymen to Rowardennan

Happy Birthday, John.

A great hike with only a couple of spits of rain. Stats: 14.7 miles, 2,300' elevation gain.

We left the B&B at about 8:15. It was about 4 miles to Conic Hill and then a short but steep 1/4 mile side trail to the top. The views of Loch Lomond to the west and the moors to the east were outstanding. We then had a 2 mile steep decent to Balmaha. The down hike was quite tough on Peg as it was very steep with a lot of wet loose rock but she made it without a fall. She really enjoyed walking through an old growth oak forest near the bottom. 

We stopped for lunch and water bottle refills at the Loch Lomond National Park Visitors Center. From there to Rowardennan we were never far from the shoreline of the Loch. There were several short but steep climbs inland to avoid shoreline cliffs. We passed several camping areas that we filling up for the weekend. Along the trail were several stands of birch. 

Our accommodation for the evening is the Anchorage Cottage which is 3 1/2 miles short of Rowardennan. The do not serve dinner so the program is that you complete the hike to Rowardennan, eat dinner and then call for a pickup. We did stop there for a nice break on their deck. No one was home so we made ourselves at home. I don't mind eating stinky but Peg would have preferred a shower first.

We arrived at Rowardennan at 4:15 and I had a beer and Peg a Diet Coke on the outside deck of the Rowardennan Hotel. We are now having dinner. All in all a great day.

    Loch Lomond from the summit of Conic Hill

    The moors from Conic Hill

    Trail near Loch Lomond

    A Druid in the woods

    Relaxing on the deck of the Anchorage Cottage B&B

    A nice reward at the end of the day

July 23, 2015 - Rest day and short hike

Happy Birthday to my sister Liz.

We both slept well and went down for breakfast at 8:00. We decided to do a short section of the start of the West Highland Way as we wanted to get used to the trail signage and trail conditions. Great plan as about 1 1/2 miles into the hike I made a wrong turn and we ended up with a 1 1/4 miles out and back detour. No harm; that's why the trial. We did about 3 1/2 miles of the correct trail and headed back to town. At Peg's direction I took pictures of many wild flowers and to no ones surprise she could  name most of them. Weather wise we had a very mixed bag: sunny and warm, sunny, breezy and cold, warm drizzle, cold and windy drizzle, and a very cold and windy downpour, all within a 90 minutes span. I'm convinced the the slogan "if you don't like the weather here wait 10 minutes" originated here.

Before we left home we tried to find a waterproof case for the IPad that I could hang around my neck so we didn't have to keep removing it from the backpack. No luck but we found the perfect one here in the small local convenience store. It will also hold the map.

We walked around town for a little bit and took some cultivated flower pictures and also found a bistro that had a small conservancy where they serve dinner. It was really neat. We may try it tonight. 

We are both anxious to get started on the first of our two big treks tomorrow morning. We are learning not to even ask about the weather as it is so changeable and we are prepared for whatever we get.

    Scottish Thistle 

   Loch Lomond from the trail 

    Cronin Hill - part of tomorrow's hike

    The bistro conservancy 

July 22, 2015 - Travel from Oban to Drymen

Happy Birthday Kerri. I know I'm late but according to Andy it's perfectly acceptable.

Our train didn't leave Oban until noon and we didn't have to checkout until noon so we had a nice leisurely morning without having to carry the luggage all over town. Oban as a town was a very pleasant surprise. We met several very friendly locals who gladly answered any and all questions.

The first train took us to Dumbarton (very nearly back to Glasgow) and then a short hop north to Balloch where we took a bus to Drymen where we are staying at the Braeside B&B.we will be here for two nights. Dinner was at the Drymen Inn and was for me the best dinner to date.

The plan for tomorrow is to attempt to sleep in (no problem for Peg), find the start and walk a little of the West Highland Way and generally rest up.

    Our abode - upper left

    Dinner stop

    Town Memorial 

    We have seen many small town bike shops 

    One of the newer bars in town 

July 21, 2015 - Walking tour of Iona and back to Oban

If we have had a common complaint to date on our trip it's rock hard pillows. Last night was a great improvement and we both slept quite well. We had what amounted to a continental breakfast and then took off for the southeast side of the island where we were told we could find some sand beaches. About half of the walk was on pavement and the rest was grassland and a little rocky slopes. We crossed the Iona version of a golf course. The course was a sheep pasture and the tees, fairways, rough and greens were all cut identically and of course were well fertilized. After about 2 1/2 miles we reached the SE coastline. There was some sand but mostly pebbles but beautiful none the less. What started out as a cool and cloudy day was now sunny and warming. We stayed for about an hour (we had the place to ourselves) and headed back to catch the ferry back to Fionnphort.

We were on the 3:20 PM bus to Craignure and then the 5:00 ferry to Oban arriving at 5:45. We collected our bags from the storage unit and checked back into the Kelvin Hotel. We ate at a steakhouse about a mile from the hotel. On the way back we had the great fortune (yes I'm being sarcastic) of coming upon the Oban Bagpipe Corps practicing in a parking lot near the hotel.

Tomorrow we take two trains and a bus to Drymen where we will soon start the West Highland Way trek. So far all preparations and planning have been spot on.

    Peg just dying to play golf

    Yes, that's the green

    On the golf course 

    Nearing the SE coast

    The SE coast

    Lighthouse on the way back to Oban

    Bagpipe practice